Building a Fast, Powerful System

Before you get out your tool kit and put your anti-static mat on the floor, you have to consider a few factors before embarking on your computer-building odyssey? Now don't panic - it's not as complicated as it seems. But above all, you must first determine what you can afford to spend. Obviously, the size of your PC building budget will have a dramatic impact on the kind of system you create. The system we'll discuss in this article is based on a modest budget, but features a fast, powerful processor, a solid motherboard, excellent memory, an ample hard drive and a great video card. Once you've decided how much you want to spend it's time to make a couple of key decisions - what processor you'll use and which motherboard suits your needs.

Your Core Component - the CPU

We strongly advise that you select your CPU before you make final decisions on your other components, because everything you want your PC to achieve is built around the processor. In this article we are going to describe a fast, powerful system that will support great graphics, superior networking, outstanding multimedia entertainment and can run games with the best of them. We also want to make sure our computer can multi-task smoothly and productively. So, we've chosen an Intel Pentium 4 2.8 GHz processor with 800MHz FSB with a 1MB cache. This swift processor features HyperThreading Technology for exceptional multitasking ability. This Pentium 4 2.8 processor is only compatible with Socket 775 motherboards.

Intel Pentium 4 2.8GHz Processor at 800Mhz FSB

Explaining the CPU Specs

Here's a simple breakdown on the vital specs onboard our Pentium 4 2.8GHz processor:

• 2.8GHz equals the speed the CPU processes data, which is 2.8 gigahertz or 2800 megahertz.
• Pentium 4 is the fourth generation of Pentium CPUs
• 800 MHz is the FSB or Front Side Bus. This relates to the data path between the CPU and the RAM memory.
• 1MB cache is the L2 or Level 2 cache. When the CPU reads data it initially stores it in the RAM memory. Then it passes through the L2 cache memory built into the CPU, then the L1 cache memory feature before being processed. When the processor looks to read the next data on the hard drive, it reads first through the L1 cache on the CPU, which is very small (typically 32kilobytes), then it looks through the L2 cache, which in this case has the first 1meg of data transferred to the processor. Then on to the RAM memory and finally onto the hard drive. The closer the CPU finds the data, the faster it can process. So, if you have the last 1mg of data in the L2 cache, and the processor can find some of what it needs the whole process speeds up dramatically.

The Motherboard

Once upon a time you did not have much leeway when it came to choosing a motherboard. That's because only a few companies built quality motherboards and the available range for CPUs was also limited. This is no longer the case. Our site is teeming with great motherboards. However, because we have chosen to work with a Pentium 4 Socket 775 processor, our choices, while still plentiful, are relegated to mainboards that are compatible with this powerful CPU. We have decided to build our system using the Asus P5P800 motherboard. The P5P800 is a complete solution for the Intel 865PE chipset that will help you create a versatile system that can easily handle graphics-intensive applications for games, high-end business programs and provide a terrific multimedia experience.. The P5P800 supports, Serial ATA, DDR 266/333/400 memory up to 4GB, Gigabit Ethernet LAN and 6-channel to produce crystal-clear digital audio.

Asus P5P800 Motherboard

Selecting the Case

The variety is staggering, with hundreds of styles, shapes and sizes available. We recommend you take a tour of our site and look closely at the features our cases offer. Select the best case you can afford. Some of our cases have a tool-less design, which makes life easier for the system builder. For purposes of this exercise we have selected Ultra's exciting new Dragon, a sparkling ATX Mid-Tower that comes in an array of splashy colors. With compelling design elements, great cooling and plenty of drive bays and expansion slots, the Dragon was built specially for high performance and gaming PCs. And this high-end case comes with a price tag that won't break the bank. It features 10 drive bays (great for adding optical drives and other peripherals such as a media reader), seven expansion slots, along with an easy air-flow design that helps keep your PC cool and stable. The Dragon also sports two up-front USB ports, an up-front Firewire port, innovative swing-out side panel for easy access to components, quick-release drive bays, snap-in fan mounts and large front-panel ventilation ducts. The Dragon boasts 4 extendable case mount feet for extra stability, front swing-out bezel cover with lock, quick-release clear side panel with lock and exhaust fan, large front panel vent, 4 screwless case fan mounts and 4 sets of rail kits.

Ultra Dragon Computer Case


Power Supply

Although many PC cases are sold with a pre-installed power supply, make sure it has enough to run your system. Here's a quick guide listing the power requirements of various system components:

Case and Power Supply

So do the math for yourself. Depending on your needs, you may need to purchase a high-output power supply for your new PC. For this system we're going with Ultra's new 500-watt X-Connect - the world's first power supply with-a fully modular configuration - that eliminates cable clutter. X-Connect's molded cable core allows you to connect only the cables you need. Each cable is UV reactive, made of the highest quality shielded material, Decked out in an attractive high-gloss finish, X-Connect boasts two hard-working, onboard 80mm cooling fans and has overvoltage and overheating protection to ensure safe, continuous operation.

Ultra's X-Connect 500-watt Fully Modular Power Supply

Tools and Components for the Project
You don't want to start your build-it-yourself project without a proper set of tools and all your components gathered together. Here are our recommended basics:

• A set of screwdrivers (small, large, slot, Philips) or a PC tool kit.
• An anti-static wrist strap
• Needle-nosed pliers
• CPU (processor)
• CPU cooling fan and heat sink
• Sound card
• Motherboard
• One or more hard drives
• Graphics card
• One or more RAM DIMMS (memory modules)
• An operating system.

Anti-static wristband

That's basically all you need to get started! Of course, it pays to find a good computer tool kit like the affordable, high-quality 107-piece Ultra kit.

107-Piece Ultra Tool Kit

Believe it or not, these days almost anyone can build or upgrade a computer. It's really a very simple process that can save you hundreds of dollars. Why build or upgrade your own PC? If you are short on hard disk space, add a new drive. If you're getting clobbered when you play the latest games because they run so slowly on your computer? Maybe it's time for a new graphics card. Perhaps you need a whole new system? With just a little more technical savvy than required for a simple upgrade, you can build a PC from scratch based on parts you select yourself.

RAM Memory
Beefing up your PC's memory is an inexpensive and surprisingly simple way to give yourself a huge boost in performance. Besides, today's complex software and graphics-intensive games chew up your memory almost as fast as you can add it on. Therefore, it's best to prepare for the immediate future by loading on as much memory as you can. To give you an example how things are changing in the memory game, Microsoft advises that you need at least 128MB of memory to run Windows XP, but the more the merrier, with 512MB ideal and 1GB even better. Back in the "old days" (circa 2000), the Redmond, Washington-based giant required only 64MB to run Windows 2000. So, you can see that memory requirements change rather quickly. Corsair's TWINX XMS 3200 Dual Channel 512MB DDR 400MHz (in two 256MB DIMMS) memory is a good choice.

The Corsair TWINX(tm) memory kits are composed of two low latency memory modules that have been tested as a pair in a dual channel motherboard. The matched pair of modules is then physically packaged together, guaranteeing that the customer receives a product that has been verified in the dual channel environment. TWINX(tm) memory kits take the guesswork out of dual channel motherboards by using modules that have been 100% tested, as a pair, in a dual channel environment. The user can be confident in the performance and stability of these low latency memory modules.

Video Card
Choosing a video card from the many thousands on the market can be an overwhelming challenge. Again, your budget plays an important role in this decision. You can spend hundreds of dollars for a card that has all the technological bells and whistles and inspires pure cinematic performance in the latest games. However, you can also find a very good video card (there are many available on our site) that combines affordability with solid graphics performance. Such a card is the XFX GeForce FX5500. For the casual PC user, the GeForce FX 5500 GPU, with its AGP 8X interface, delivers the industry-leading features and performance you expect from nVidia. Backed by the renowned nVidia Unified Driver Architecture (UDA) and the only GPU in its class to support Microsoft� DirectX� 9.0, the GeForce FX 5500 ensures the ultimate compatibility with the latest gaming and multimedia software. One of the best cards available in its very inexpensive price range, this FX5500 has a huge 256MB video memory - more than enough to help you experience full cinematic computing.

GeForce FX5000 video card from nVidia.

Hard Drive
For this project we've decided to go with a Seagate 80GB 7200 RPM ATA-100 EIDE hard drive package - a solid, high capacity drive known for its exceptional reliability and superior desktop performance. With its 80GB capacity, this hard drive is ideal for data back up, MP3 and DVD libraries, games, digital imaging and digital video and delivers fast, quiet performance. And with an 80GB hard drive you can store as many as 20 2-hour DVD quality movies or 55 days of round-the-clock MP3, or as many as 20,000 digital photographs. Dollar for dollar this is one of the best hard drives on the market.

Seagate 80GB Hard Drive

Assembling the PC

Installing the Motherboard
Here comes the fun part! Installing the motherboard. First, take the board out of its packaging and put it on top of the antistatic bag it came in. Remember, you always want to safeguard your components from potentially hazardous static electricity. Before you secure the mobo onto the PC case, you should install the processor, heat sink and the memory modules on it. If you aren't sure which socket is which, or what goes where, consult your motherboard's user manual for guidance. User manuals are extremely helpful, easy to read and include illustrations. First, lift the lever on the processor socket so you can install the CPU. Carefully line up the pins and place the chip in its socket; it will fit only when oriented the proper way. An arrow or a missing pin on one corner of the chip will show you how to line things up. Lower the lever to lock the CPU into place.

Next, follow the manufacturer's directions to install the heat sink and the fan that will cool the processor. If you bought an OEM CPU and a separate heat sink, you may need to spread a thin layer of the thermal grease that came with the heat sink over the chip to ensure proper transfer of heat (some heat sinks come with this grease already applied). Attaching the clip that holds the heat sink in place may require a fair amount of force. Again, the instructions that came with the heat sink will show you how to know whether you've fitted it correctly. Plug the fan's power connector into the proper connector on the motherboard.

TECHNIQUE: This part can get a little tricky. But stick with it and you will have no trouble at all. In order to install the memory modules, insert them into the proper sockets and push down firmly but evenly until the clips on both sides of the socket pop into place. If your motherboard supports dual-channel memory, consult the user manual to determine which pairs of RAM sockets you should use. The motherboard and the CPU are the brain and nerve center of your PC, so selecting these components might just be the most important decision you'll make.

Place the Motherboard into Your Case

Installing Memory
Take your memory module out of its anti-static bag and hold it gently by the edges. Line up the notch on the bottom of your new memory module with the empty memory slot and press the new module down with your thumbs until the pins rest snugly inside the slot. You may have to exert some pressure! When will hear a click when the memory module is installed correctly.

Connecting The Color-Coded Power Cables
Obviously, making the proper connections is crucial to your successful PC system build. Fortunately, manufacturers now provide color-coded power cables to make the job easy. First, plug the large ATX power connector for your power supply into the matching port on your motherboard. Next, locate the smaller, square processor power connector ( you can't miss it - it's the one sprouting the yellow and black wires) and attach it to the motherboard. Note: your connector is usually located near the processor. Now it's time to get out your motherboard user manual and find the description about front-panel connectors. Be forewarned - you're going to be doing work now that requires attention to detail and can be quite frustrating if you don't go into it with the right attitude. Okay, now that we've warned you, attach each of the tiny leads from the power and reset switches, the hard-disk activity lights, the PC speaker, and any front-panel USB and FireWire ports to the corresponding pin on your motherboard. If you have to, don't be afraid to use your needle-nose pliers.

Install the Video Card (and test it.)
Close your eyes and imagine the incredible video you're going to see once you're brand new, custom-built PC is up and running. Okay, open them up again and let's get to work. It's time to install the video card so you can see those great images. First, remove the back plane cover for your AGP , install the graphics board in that slot, and then secure the card with a screw. Some graphics boards require a dedicated connection to your PC's power supply. If yours does, you should plug in the correct power connector now. Connect a keyboard, mouse, monitor, and power cable to your computer and turn it on. If the internal fans begin to whir, the system beeps, and you see the machine starting to boot, power down (by holding the power button for 5 seconds) and continue building. If nothing happens, back up a step and recheck all of your connections. Make sure that both the processor and the memory are properly seated, and recheck those minuscule leads connecting the motherboard to the power and reset switches. Shut down your PC, unplug it, and open the case. Remove the old graphics board (if any), insert the new board into its slot, and secure it with a screw. Plug your PC back in, turn it on, and follow the manufacturer's directions to set up the new graphics board.

Install the Add-In Cards
Take another deep breath. You're getting close to the end. Perhaps you might take a short break, check out all the great things you've done and get ready for the home stretch. Now, for each add-in card, you must choose a free PCI slot. Next, remove its back plane cover to allow access from the rear of the case. Carefully position the card above the slot, and press down firmly to seat the card. Secure the card with a screw. Many motherboards have additional sound connectors or ports housed on small add-in boards. Some of these plug into slots on the motherboard; others screw into the back of the case in place of slot covers. Usually the additional ports are not essential to your PC's operation. For example, if you install a sound card, you do not need connectors to the motherboard's built-in sound chip. Although we may sound like a broken record in saying this, once again check your motherboard manual to determine what each of these boards does.

Installing the Drives
Now it's time to install your drives. It's an easy process, but again requires some attention to detail. Gather up all your drives. Collect the hard disk, the optical drives, and the floppy drives, but be certain to make any necessary changes to jumpers on the drives before mounting them in the case. A two-drive system (one or two SATA hard drives, plus one parallel ATA optical drive, for example) is easy to set up; the SATA drives are jumper less, and the optical drive can be set as master on its own parallel ATA channel. Many cases use removable drive rails or cages to house drives. Use the included screws to attach your drives to the rails or cage, and slide them into the case. For externally accessible drives such as a DVD recorder, you can save time by installing one drive rail and sliding the drive in for a test fitting to make sure that its front is flush with the case.

When the drives are installed, connect power and data cables to each one. Parallel ATA drives use wide, flat data cables that can be installed only in the correct way. Floppy drives use a similar but smaller cable; SATA drives use a thin, 1cm-wide data cable. SATA drives use a new type of power connector that many power supplies don't come with. Fortunately, many motherboards ship with adapters for converting a standard four-pin power connector to a SATA power connector. Some drives ship with both the older connector and the SATA power connector. In that case, use one power connector or the other, but not both. The capacity of hard drives continues to increase: You can now hold 400GB of data on a single drive, which is great news for digital media pack rats and video editors. But though you don't have to compromise on the drive's size, you still have a few choices to make when picking a hard disk.

CD, CD-RW And DVD
Whether you upgrade or build a new PC, adding a fast optical drive can increase its flexibility. And even if you're on a budget, drives that read and burn any format under the sun won't break the bank.

TIP: Get An "All-In-One" Drive:
No need to worry about whether your drive supports DVD+RW or DVD-RW-for around $90 you can get an 8X DVD combination drive that writes to all major formats of rewritable DVD. Burn DVD+R and -R discs at 8X, both rewritable DVD formats at 4X, CD-Rs at 40X, and CD-RWs at 24X. You'd save only about $40 by going with a simple CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo drive, so you get more value with a DVD burner that does it all.

TIP: Do not use bulky "Ribbon" cables:
The flat, wide ribbon cables that Parallel ATA drives use to carry data can restrict airflow inside your case, robbing your system of valuable cooling; and functionality aside, they're just plain ugly. Rounded data cables available at your local PC store look much nicer, and they don't impede airflow.

TIP: The Storage Secret: Dual-Layer DVD "DL"
What's 12 centimeters in diameter and can hold 8.5GB of data? A dual-layer DVD disc, that's what. Most stand-alone DVD players can play the dual-layer discs that these drives burn, boosting the amount of video that will fit on one disc. You'll pay a small price premium for early dual-layer drives, however, and compatible media may be hard to find at first. In addition, writing to dual-layer discs is slower than writing to single-layer ones--2.4X for the former, as opposed to 8X, 12X, or 16X for the latter. We recommend waiting until the prices of drives and media fall before switching to dual-layer unless you need the extra storage space.

TIP: One Cable, Two Drives: So-Called "Master And Slave."
Adding a drive to an older PC isn't always a question of simply plugging it in. Most older PCs use parallel ATA technology, where two drives share one cable (this is referred to as a channel; most PCs come with at least two IDE channels for a maximum of four drives). Setting a jumper designates each drive as either a master or a slave, which permits a single cable to connect two drives to one IDE channel. The jumper settings for each designation are usually labeled on the drive itself. A few simple rules should guide your configuration choices. If possible, each drive should sit on its own IDE channel configured as a master drive. If you have two drives on one channel, always make the faster drive the master drive. For example, suppose that you wanted to add a second hard drive and a DVD burner to a PC equipped with one hard drive and one CD-RW drive. In that case, you would want to set the new, faster hard drive as master on the primary IDE channel. Your older hard drive should be the slave drive on the primary channel, with the two optical drives as master and slave on the secondary channel.

Turn It On (and check your PC Set up)
Having fun yet? Of course you are. It's time to get on with the business of turning on your system and checking out your PC set up. So plug in the keyboard, mouse, and monitor to the appropriate ports on the back of the PC. Plug the power cord back in, and turn the machine on. Enter your PC's BIOS setup screen by pressing the indicated key (often Delete) as the machine boots. Menu options will vary from board to board, but they share the same general categories. Set the date and time, and then look for a setting that deals with PC health status and monitoring. That choice should bring up a screen showing processor and case temperature. Watch the processor temperature for a few minutes. It should stabilize at a level between 30�C and 50�C. If it keeps increasing, your heat sink probably isn't installed properly. Power down and check to see whether the heat sink is securely attached and making good contact with the processor. Next, find the section of the BIOS setup that determines the order in which your machine checks drives and devices for one it can boot from. Set CD-ROM to the highest priority so that your machine will boot from the Windows installation CD.

Installing the Operating System
Now you are just two simple steps away from running your very own custom-built personal computer. All that's left is to install the operating system and then update your drivers and install the programs. First, place the Windows installation CD in your optical drive, reboot the PC, and allow the system to boot off the disc. Windows setup should begin. Early in the process, Windows will ask you whether you need to install a third party SCSI or RAID driver. If you're using a RAID setup, press F6 when this message appears; then insert the floppy containing the appropriate driver when it is requested. If your machine hangs while installing Windows, there may be a problem with one of the components. Try removing everything except the core components (motherboard, processor, one memory module, and hard drives); then, once you've successfully installed Windows, begin reinstalling each component one by one to isolate the source of the problem.

Last, But NOT Least: Update Drivers and Install Programs
Once you've got Windows up and running, the last step in this exciting, build-it-your-self process is to update your hardware drivers. This is not an optional procedure - you MUST do it. Insert the CD with the latest drivers (from step 1) and install them, starting with those for the motherboard and graphics card and then moving on to less critical ones like mouse and sound card drivers. (Windows comes with basic drivers to get you up and running.) Several reboots later, you should have a shiny new PC! Next, get your network connection up and running, install a firewall, and download the latest Windows patches. Finally, make sure that everything runs okay, and then back up your system. That way you'll have a clean, current image of Windows to go back to if serious trouble arises in the future.. If these steps check out and you're still experiencing spontaneous reboots, your problem may be one of the following situations.

Overclocking: We do not recommend overclocking.
Memory Timing: The fix? Go into your BIOS and set your memory on "Auto" or at a more conservative setting and see if the reboot problem goes away. Outdated BIOS: Make sure you have the latest BIOS for your board. You can determine if your CPU is supported by browsing the BIOS updates of the motherboard's manufacturer. If you're running a Pentium 4 Extreme Edition and notice that it's only supported with the latest BIOS updates, you may have located the problem! Inadequate Power: If you've made significant component upgrades---with the exception of the power supply---your power supply may be overstressed or failing due to heat or age. Finally, if you've migrated your OS and other files from machine to machine to machine, it may be time for a clean install.